Day 3: Discover Rokole, Opočno, Potštejn, and the legendary Homole

Take a trip from Broumov to the Orlické Mountains. The local landscape hides places that provide the desired peace and shelter from the hectic pace of today’s world. Go to the Rokole pilgrimage site – once a popular stop on the way to distant Vambeřice. The Marian pilgrimage site is paradoxically adjacent to Peklo (‘Hell’) and is located in the area between Nové Město nad Metují and Dobruška. In a forest corner you will find a well with healing water, a brick chapel and a copy of the original chapel in Schönstatt. There used to be a tavern here; however, it is now only used for drinking and merrymaking during the September Rokole pilgrimage. 

Dobruška is connected with the secret work of evangelical priests whose fate we know from the novels Temno and F. L. Věk, but also with the name of František Kupka. The painter spent many years in France. His surreal paintings have, therefore, long waited to be discovered and appreciated by his countrymen. Today, you can see some of them in a small gallery in the tower on the square, but also in the House of František Kupka where the artist was born in 1871.

From Dobruška, head to Opočno. Here you will discover the Renaissance Colloredo-Mannsfeld Castle with its picture gallery, hunting trophies and representative chambers. The château park with the Palm greenhouse and the Letohrádek invites you to take a stroll. At the bottom of the park you may be surprised by the waterfall and exotic trees. 

You can visit the castle and château in Potštejn. The ruins of the castle are situated on an elevated hill surrounded by forest. In the centre of the town, where the path along the Divoká Orlice River and the linden alley leads, there is a Baroque castle. The renowned beer will wet the throats of all who stop by the Clock Brewery. You can also have a delicious meal there. A popular patisserie can be found on the square.

However, just a few kilometres from Potštejn there is a place that is much less known, off the beaten tourist path. It is theHomole pilgrimage site that rises above the plains on a hill with a church, to which high steps lead to Scala Sancta. The number of steps to the top corresponds exactly to the words of the prayer that pilgrims used to recite while climbing on their knees. After such an effort they enjoyed a short rest upon the several resting places that line the staircase. The way up is decorated with statues of saints. 
The local pilgrimage area was dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows and was worked on by many people from all over the area. The work was demanding and supervised by catchpoles. No wonder, therefore, that the workers cursed the Countess who had ordered the building during its construction. That is why there is a devilish legend associated with this holy place. 

For this trip, it’s convenient to use a car or public transport. However, at each of the mentioned places, you can make a stop for a walk—whether it’s along the Way of the Cross near the pilgrimage site of Rokole, in the castle park in Opočno, or in the surroundings of Potštejn.