Day 3: Follow the literary footsteps from Náchod to Babička

Josef Škvorecký placed his most famous works into his hometown – that is Náchod! You too can follow in the footsteps of his characters. You can still find him sitting on the bench or visiting his favourite restaurant, Port Arthur. However, a bit of theory first! 
Josef Škvorecký’s exhibition can be found in the new premises of the Spolkový dům in Náchod. You can learn all about the writer’s life in former Czechoslovakia and later in exile in Toronto from the information panels. However, you will also be fascinated by the faithful copy of Škvorecký’s study and reading room. The co-founder of the exile publishing house, Sixty-Eight Publishers, also donated a substantial part of his estate to Náchod – besides several hundred volumes of books in numerous world languages, it also includes gramophone records, honorary doctorates, medals, photographs and paintings by Bohumír Španiel, a native of Náchod. A local café serving goodies and playing jazz invites you to sit in the Spolkový dům.

From Náchod, head to Česká Skalice. The town preserves the legacy of the writer Božena Němcová. You can learn more about her life at the Museum of Božena Němcová. The oldest literary museum in the Czech Republic is housed in the former Steidler’s Inn. In its spacious premises you will not only find an exhibition of the first and most famous Czech writer, but also Jiřinka Hall, where Božena danced at the Jiřinka Ball when she was young. The museum will also introduce you to the history of the town, the Battle of Česká Skalice in 1866 and the works of local painters. The museum additionally includes the building of Barunka’s school – but you have to look for it in the centre of the town.

TIP: On your way from Barunka’s school to the Museum of Božena Němcová, visit the Luxfer Gallery. It offers a space for contemporary art both inside the gallery and in its outdoor area.

The Baroque Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is located near the museum and is the place where Barbora Panklová married Josef Němec. Try and see if they are open right now.

Ratibořice is firmly linked to the work of Božena Němcová. That is where the writer set the plot of her novel, Babička. Places you will know from this work can be explored in one afternoon. We will leave it up to you whether you start at Ratibořice Castle or at Staré bělidlo. However, give yourself time. Babiččino údolí is above all a beautiful place for walks, so it is not surprising that Grandma has settled there.

WHERE ELSE could director Antonín Moskalyk have made a film adaptation of Babička than there? Compare today’s and the film version of the valley, find Viktorka’s weir, beehives or Father from Rudrův mlýn.